So split the power to feed both "hots" of the 2-pole breaker. Backfeed breakers require bolt-down kits, and bolt-down kits require 2-pole breakers. bring power "in" the normal "out" of a breaker). If you got a main-lug (no main breaker) panel, then you'll have to backfeed it. NO MWBCs (shared neutral) circuits! (if you don't know what that is, don't worry about it). That is, you put two 6" pigtails on the 2 hot inputs of the main breaker, and wire-nut that to your 30A input (you'll need a big blue or tan wire nut). If you got a main-breaker panel, you take your 30A 120V "Hot" wire and split it. No need for an upgrade! Hooking up to the disconnect switch In the future if you make your supply wire bigger, it just hooks up to the main-breaker panel. (Since you're only using it as a disconnect switch, size does not matter). The cheapest way to get a 30A disconnect switch is to get a panel with a main breaker >= 30A. That becomes your mandatory disconnect switch. I'll even say to get a panel with a "main breaker". So take back the 2-space and get at least a 12-space. But the message for now is, a baby panel is the worst possible place you could try to save money! There's very little money to be saved (I joke about "a few latté's" but it's true), and so much frustration and cost when you hit the wall later. This is an expensive and awkward problem, and it is easily avoided by getting an excessively large panel (for right now). The likeliest thing that will happen to you is that you will run out of breaker spaces. That is to say, 2-space panel considered bad 18-space panel considered good. One of our crusades around here is to convince people that you are better off with a LARGE service panel, in terms of the number of spaces. Why? You need a disconnect switch, and that's it! And it must be 1 throw action. However you must use a 2-pole breaker, or handle-tie all the breakers so they throw together. Just split the hot so it connects to both lugs.
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